"Sometimes is better travelling than getting to the destination."

- R. Pirsig -




05 january Farallon (PANAMA)

10 hours flight and 3 movies later, we are flying over Dominican Republic during this first journey of 2007!

Panama! This little strip of land, terminal of Central America and last border before "penetrate" into South America via Colombia. Yes, this strip of land borders on the north side with Costa Rica, south with the dangerous Colombia, east with Atlantic Ocean and west with the Pacific one.

Today we have had our first bath in this big sea, that is the most dangerous in the world. The water can't be compared to the Caribbean one!

Landed in Panama City, we are enfolded by a very annoying humidity...

We ride two hours to get to our hotel and I am soon impressed by the flourishing vegetation, sometimes impenetrable...

We come across a bridge on the famous Channel, the one that made Panama famous in the whole world and that made this little country so rich!

Our traveller spirit brings us to stroll outside till a small village called: Farallon!

We see the classical colonial-caribbean small houses, with a little garden, the hammocks all around and the families, as it happened 50 years ago in Italy, around the "fireplace", quietly chatting.

The hammock is the Caribbean "fireplace"! People in the street greet us, smile at us, thry are really friendly.

Children come to us and joke with us; we enjoy these moments even when Carlo suggests a minute of silence to listen to the Nature!

On the way back we stop and talk to a very nice family, we ask them how they usually spend their evenings there, amazed by my question: "What? There's the balera over there! Every evening we dance!", as to mean: "what a stupid question"!

They should see how we spend ours, in our dark Country in winter, after a wearisome, stressful and boring day at work!

It's true, they enjoy with simple things and they are happy!

06 january Penonomè (PANAMA)

We spend the whole morning dabbling as some eels just set free in the water, playing beach soccer with some Colombians, joking with them about narcos and coca and having long walk on the beach surrounded by very funny little birds and fighting against the sun!

In the afternoon, with a local bus costing 3$: Jeff, Carlo, aunt Anna and me go to discover the nearest city: Penonomè!

The ride in the small bus which stopped everytime it saw people along the way, has been really funny. We noticed the curious glance of the people when we arrived at our destination, always smiling. This isn't a tourist place at all! We stroll along the classical Caribbean small shops with multicolour advertising panels directly painted on their walls!

A very nice old man, tailor, welcomes us in his "lab" '40s style; an old woman shows us, very proudly, her crib in the living room of her house!


"You that are on the road, footsteps are your way, nothing else;
You that are on the road, you're not on a road, you make the road by going.
While you go, you create the road and whe you turn back
you'll see the path that you will never trample anymore.
You that are on the road, you do not have a road, but only trails in the sea. "

- Antonio Machado -


07 january Pararapuru (PANAMA)


Wake up in the early morning because our taxi is waiting for us ! We go to the jungle to visit Embera tribe!

Two hours ride later and after a very exciting crossing of the Rio Chagrez, by canoe, admiring a flourishing nature, birds, turtles, multicolour butterflies, frogs etc. we get to a fall seen only in adventure movies! It seemed to be in the movie: "Mission" with the aborigines who followed us dressed only with a bandage around their pubes!

We keep on our "shipping" by canoe and from "Mission" we jump into a "documentary"! We reach their village camouflaged in the jungle...

I have no words when I see some men playing weird musical instruments simply obtained by pieces of wood and women, with uncovered breast ornated by big lecklaces who were staring at us quietly. They were not the Kuna that I searched so much, but who cared! I go to discover the village, armed with my photocamera, but... No! I see a group of tourists!

Disappointment! Maybe it's the classical show for poor dupe tourists? Aborigines, who, as soon as the tourists go away, go back to their modern houses... maybe the woman starts to cook with the micro-wave, the husband watches the TV sitting on a comfortable sofa and the kids go to their room to play with the Playstation... The Romanticism soon ends, the poetry vanishes but I keep on my scouting alone and overcome high bushes... Wow!

My heart starts beating again and loud! Their real village appears in front of my eyes! Palafittes with cloths layed to get dry, bathroom as SCOUT latrines and children who, hidden, were staring at me...

Wonderful! I was speechless watching around me, slowly, as if I was waiting that a movie starring, soon, would spring from a bush and make the final "ciak" beat ! But there was no starring and I kept on admiring as much as I could!

Suddenly, almost as if I wasn't there, a woman, with a long stick, springs out with a wonderful little baby who looked like "Pocahontas" and started to toss a palm with that stick in order to make a kind of nuts fall down; some minutes later they were quietly cracking and eating them!

But it's lunch time ... we eat some platanus and fish just fished from the river, fried, wrapped in a great palm leaf! So tasty!

Charlie flirts with village leader daughter who takes us to visit her school, a tiny hut very small but decent!

Impressed, we watched around but the poetry suddenly was stopped by the scream of our driver "Evaristo" who warned us that our canoe was going to leave, just on time to admire the last show of Embera: the parting of rice, beans, toothpaste etc. just brought from the city:

I felt like Leonardo di Caprio in "The Beach"!


"With such a burning desire I wish my friends were here with me, in order to enjoy the sight of what I have in front of me."

- J.W.Goethe -

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