13 august Mostar (BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA)

We are in the waiting room of the bus station in Sarajevo.

You can write a more or less indicative guideline but in the end you never follow it ... We had decided to leave tomorrow to Split and instead we are waiting for a bus to Mostar... After meeting three cheerful girls from Bologna we decide to follow them and make the return journey with them... They: by car and we, in parallel: by bus...

Too bad that, just now, in the tram, while we were coming here, me and Charly have been "caught" by the controller because we hadn't printed the ticket ... What an asshole! We were treated as two thieves, a controller placed to block an exit and the same the other one; after letting all go out, they made the bus stop and they begun to threaten us that if we had not paid the penalty they would have called the police. I tried to explain that I hadn't printed it because we had not seen the machine and that we were leaving Bosnia so we would have never used that ticket again, this just to make him understand that we had not done on purpose.

They seemed to enjoy threating us badly. In the end we decide to pay and go away. What a pity to leave Sarajevo, a city that had affected us for the cordiality of the people with this bad adventure!

[Rossho]: "You know, when you listen to a song ... you sing it a bit, dances it, you enjoy it ... Then it ends and you return to hear the noise of the street ... I feel this way ... after several beautiful moments in Sarajevo you feel taken and would like to stay (someone did it), now there is just the noise of the bus to Mostar and many thoughts scattered throughout the Balkans".

The war... You see these people so sociable, smiling... It seems as it has never have been... Yet there are too many cemeteries and houses pierced by bullets... Humanity just makes me laugh .... It would deserve to disappear for the bullshits it does... You hear talking about this with stakeholders is unique... They talk about shelters, years passed abroad by relatives or friends, about veils to wear, about highest Gods than others, is there a God more God than another? Yesterday a 17 years old girl said, convinced of this, Allah is the greatest of all.

It 's sad to note the disparity... What is the equality and what the diversity... I often wonder it, but here, at every corner there is the evidence of the problem... how can you live with 100 euros per month? Why do they have to pay a visa to enter Italy and we don't? Why a woman finds normal to wear a full veil and another doesn't? These are criminal thoughts somewhere in the world, then better keep them for myself... I am confused, that's why I continue travelling to these lands, there is no single road that leads to the truth... It can not...

A thought goes to Pedro that has lfollowed his life ... As it is, I envy him so much... It's rare to see these changes of direction and perhaps of life too... but these are fantastic things... I feel so small and useless in front of this river in full, I stay there, afraid to drown, and this always happens when I am confronted with new cultures... Maybe I should stop doing so... I'll be back always a little more worn...

Our life is really small without emotions... Congratulations to these people that falls and gets up again confident, there is still a lot to learn and how I often say: "we are the poor ones!"

14 august Mostar (BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA)

After two hours and a half we get to Mostar.

A city heard so many times at the news during the war but even here, beyond some old ruins, you cannot notice the suffering of a war lived only a few years ago.

A guy, dressed very miserably, comes to welcomes us and if he had not told our names we would have never followed him...

We cross uninhabited lanes until we reach the entrance of a garage. He calls an oldman who lives in the house above and opens this basement, suddenly a real abusive hostel comes alive in front of our eyes. I must admit, however, that was really nice, clean and new.

The suburb of the centre is nothing special. One huge road full of bad men that occasionally glanced at us in a bad way.

We are far from the beautiful main road of Sarajevo...


We walk next to various mosques, cemeteries with hundreds different tombstones but they all share the same date of death: 1993.


Another injury falls down after Palestinian refugees in Amman, now I see the Bosnian Muslims in a different light.

But: you are in Belgrade at Ana's friends, and they describe you these Islamic as the cruel murderers, then you come here, speak with Samra, Jasna and Emira and listen the other side of the bell, a bit like it happened to me in Vietnam, and your ideas first clear then start to get confused ...

Where is the truth?

At sunset, the small town turns into a crib living with those characteristics lights that illuminate the various mosques but especially the majestic bridge.

Charly and Luly relax lying on the banks of the river, Rossho strolls around seeking some souvenir, I write my last thoughts sitting on the mythical bridge while few tourists pass in front of me... Who knows what Pedro is he doing in Sarajevo, I would like to have the correspondent in the Bosnian capital to get in contact with my friend!

Small curiosity: in all the places where we have had lunch they never served beer and today when I asked why they answered me with the simplest explanation of the world: "We are Muslims!"

15 august Mostar (BOSNIA-HERZEGOVINA)

In the evening we meet some Slovak girls in our same hostel. We go out with them and a couple of their Bosnian-Slovaks friends .

We chat drinking something in a nice place near the mythical bridge. Marko, the name of their friend, tells us many stories of the war, about how they lived those terrible years, he shows us a road whose buildings were destroyed, pierced by thousands of holes, they will remain in this way for a long time, the government wants to keep them like that almost as a warning, memory of what had happened there!

In the hostel, sipping the Argentinean "mate" prepared by Luly, we all continue our talks until late

. I adore confronting with people of other cultures ...

[Jana Siskova from Bratislava, Slovakia]: "We have spent a nice evening with you guys. We wish you all the best in your next adventurous trips and maybe see you somewhere in the other part of the world!"



16 august Split (CROATIA)

With a strong hug and two kisses on the cheeks our Balkan group divides ...

Rossho and Luly continue to Medugorie and then Dubrovnik, Pedro, via SMS, tells me that he is still in Sarajevo and does not know when he will return and this says everything, this could also sum up the feeling of a journey. We, with three Bolognese girls, by car, head towards Split.

Silvia, Marina and Sara are three smart gals, I was struck by their organization and harmony. I re-saw myself nine years ago during my first inter rail!

The transfer in the "comfortable" Renault Clio has been funny!

Split reminded me of Alicante. Port of sea, fascinating, full of tourists, the traditional holiday sea... So different from the several thousand interesting back-packers met daily in these days in the real Balkans!

One thing that made me think a lot was seeing these three Bolognese while they were greeting a couple of friends of them met on the ferry and quickly told them about the journey that was ending...

Two worlds in comparison: the first of three adventurer girls by car, dressed very casual and comfortable... The second, the one of the couple, clean, fragrant oils of their hotel, with very few things to tell but of the sun taken lying in the pool, on the contrary of a thousand adventures of my new friends ...

On the sidelines I observe the scene and I start laughing.. I was enjoying satisfied and I thought I belong to the first world!

Croatia is behind us and the slow sway of this huge ferry (Jadrolinija) accompanies us to greet another wonderful week of our lives and as usual we try to live in the best way we know: "intensively"!

"On the Mediterranean all are close to others, we are in the presence of a sea of intimacy. I say this with enthusiasm." - Predrag Matvejevic -

17 august Ancona (ITALY)


I have heard Rossho: he is on the ferry and in an hour he will arrive in Bari.

Luly is in Mostar waiting for Pedro, in the meantime he is still in Sarajevo but he seems to be departing ...

Our night on the ferry has been cool... After relaxing on our sleeping bags on the deck and after supper with the latest things remained, we have fallen asleep under a starry sky, made even more unique by the light of full moon...

I wake up at seven am, we have already arrived in Ancona!


Hvala Balkanu


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