27 september Caia (MOZAMBIQUE)

"Guys, wake up ... it's five o'clock!" Anna whispers softly.
I open one eye and asks for confirmation: "Are you sure this time?"
I hear that Rudy asking if there is fog.

In a minute we are on the beach.
Strap on my camera like a gun, the small digital one in the right pocket in the short, video camera in the left one, I cover my face with the balaclavas (my faithful friend of Kabul) and we scramble away!

This time, the dawn is ours.

I was impressed by the speed at which the sun suddenly appeared on the horizon and then climb up into the sky.
It was so much since I last admired this spectacle of nature and I am almost excited, thinking that at that moment a new day was about to begin!

Today we leave Vilankulo and the sea, we head north.
We have three full days of road and the unkown places to sleep makes it even more exciting.

Grind hundreds of miles and through much of this nation.

I saw men, women and children appearing from nowhere and walking with the most disparate things in perfect balance on the head and then suddenly disappearing again, children sitting in the shade of a giant baobab and an adult explaining them something, people selling bottles of petrol on the street, straw and mud huts, women doing laundry in a small pool of water near a river dried up half; old with tattoos in the shape of a cross on the forehead, cheeks and chin; people of all ages walking miles just to bring a bit of water, child taking care of younger brothers and sisters much smaller than them ....

Our equipped truck suddenly brakes. A cloud of sand covers us, then thins out and we go down.
We are tired, dirty and sweaty.
We want to assemble the tents and the camp kitchen as soon as possible so that we can relax with a shower.

We are going to sleep in a field too close to the impressive Zambezi River.
In less than no time our battle for survival against mosquitoes starts.

We install everything with great cooperation of everyone.

We are experts now.

The night in tent has been tough: the worst one.
Struggle against the oppressive heat and the hundreds of mosquitoes of the Zambezi River...


28 september Ihla Moçambique (MOZAMBIQUE)

Night falls quickly in this corner of the world and it happens that at 5 p.m., after eleven hours of travel, you are still on the road and you are missing many more! Too many!

It's hard drive here at night and dangerous as well.
Some rare animals graze undisturbed on the asphalt still hot, a few cars have the lights and the many roadblocks of the police try to stop those who are without lights.
Fannie knows this and therefore tries in vain to convince us to stop in the first safe place, but we want to get to our destination at all costs.
In the late evening, after 15 hours drive we reach Ihla Moçambique.
The place is totally different from what we were expecting.
The Lonely Planet has disappointed us this time. We expected a touristic place where we could rest our tired bones, wash our dirty clothes and above all a relaxing shower, instead we find ourselves having to camp on a deserted beach where even find a bottle of water becomes a arduous task. But we do not loose heart and soon our field is ready and rice in bags, brought from Italy, already boiling in the pot!

A wonderful and romantic starry sky is watching us and, after a general Amuchina spread throughout the body, we collapse exhausted into our sleeping bags ...


29 september Ihla Moçambique (MOZAMBIQUE)

Wake up at five a.m. as usual, but by now we are totally enveloped by the African life that moves and plays perfectly to the rhythm of the sun ...

We walk across the bridge, three kilometers from the island that divide the city that we have defined: "the island of Children"!

Never seen so many children in my life!

Even now, I jot down my thoughts while sitting outside a restaurant, queues of curious children walk in front of me. Many people ask me to be photographed and when reviewing the small display of my Canon jump for joy, clap, call their friends, they ask for another shot ...

The whole island is a mixture of huts and schools.
We have entered one of them .... One boy was explaining the respiratory system to a group of children sitting on the floor without desks or chairs ...
"The idea of our bag of candy was not so good!" - the poor Stefania must have thought while being attacked by dozens of kids ...

Ibrahim, a deaf-mute boy, wide awake and very smart, transformed in our body guard. After offering him a plate of rice and a Fanta, he follows us throughout the afternoon and woe betide any child to get too close to us ...

We are filthy and smelly, the first beach we find we dive to wash!
It's been two full days that we have no water...

While we're soaking a circle of kids is having fun watching us.
After a while, we all come together to dance with them at the rythm of their songs!

It's dinner time! We expect the lobsters purchased this morning by a fisherman, paid two euro each, which the owner of a restaurant is going to cook in her restaurant, but stated that we would have to pay 100 metikals (2 euro) for the "work". Two euro in total!

The return to our tents was quite busy!
I get the bright idea to cross the bridge on foot with Anna!

The first three hundred yards are lit and nice ... but then ... pitch dark, no torch, with cars and motorcycles that occasionally touched us noticing our presence at the last minute; stormy ocean beneath our feet that reminded us of how small we are by comparison!

"I have been naive! A large and unnecessary risk" - I thought after camping. Anyone who might have lie there and rob me of everything.

After the bridge the bitter surprise.
Our tents were swept away by the wind!

With enormous patience and without getting angry we slowly rebuild the whole camp!



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