21 october Delhi (INDIA)

28° day

Gurudwara Bangla Sahib temple at two o'clock at night is very impressive.
The white marble walls are reflected in the waters of the lake that surrounds it.

The faithful Sikhs from the long beard and large colorful turbans are very friendly and jovial.
It is curious when they see us and ask to be photographed.


22 october Delhi (INDIA)

We reach Qutub Minar  by car with Mona. We are even buffered along the way. The traffic is crazy and unruly. Even being right we are informed that insurance will not pay the damages. Indian rules!

During the day we visit the Red Fort and then get lost in the alleys of the bazaar of this ancient and impressive city.

23 october Bikaner (INDIA)

[Stefy]: Unfortunately our train to Bikaner departs with six hours delay...  we even woke up at 2.45 am to get on time at the train station.

Tomorrow we will visit the temple of rats in  Deshnok. I'm so scared. I've always been afraid of rats and for this reason I asked Mark to come here!
I must overcome this stupid phobia! Will I manage?

24 october Bikaner (INDIA)

We are in Deshnok, not too far from the border with Pakistan, we are about to enter the Temple of rats! Stefy is very tense.

We enter, two rats  through the small courtyard, we get close to one of the most classic images of this place: two huge dishes  full of milk and dozens of rats  to drink it...

The "Kaba" (holy rodents) are revered by many pilgrims, in fact, according to Hindu legend: the deity Karni Mata asked the God of death Yama to bring to life the son of a storyteller afflicted by this bereavement. At the refusal of Yama, Karni Mata reincarnated all the storyteller dead as  rats, thus depriving Yama of human souls.

[Stefy]: I still can not believe: I crossed the "door of their house."

It was so crazy forme to think that so many people traveled many miles, hours and hours crammed into filthy bus to bring offerings, food and milk to a horde of rats...

The city is ready for the "Diwali" of the day after tomorrow, similar to our New Year Eve!
All are in turmoil, camels laden with goods of all kinds go all over and off the streets. "Buyinmg something during Diwali is a sign of good luck," confessed the sweet Abi, our connection in Bikaner.

25 october Jodhpur (INDIA)

Landscape is still desertic, occasionally we notice  a hut of stones with some woman who looked after a herd of sacred cows... we passed through villages forgotten by all Indian deities ...

We reached Jodhpur, the blue city, on the day of Diwali.

We celebrate it with a romantic dinner in the elegant "Kalinga Restaurant" and then end up losing ourselves in one of the many bakeries in the city to enjoy the famous "gulab jamun".



26 october Jodhpur (INDIA)

 Mehrangarh fort built before the discovery of America gave us a wonderful view over the city and it showes us  a snippet of what life was like in those years in this remote place.

It 's time to dive deep into the everyday life of the city in turmoil for Diwali. How many people stopped us to wish us "Happy Diwali!" ... It was funny  even receiving greetings SMS on our Indian mobile phone by our Indian friends!

We reach the "Clock Tower", the commercial and social center of the city.
Hundreds of people buy or sell things. The bakers and sellers of fireworks make a fortune.
Thanks to our Lonely Planet we end up in a small restaurant, "Shri Mishrilal"  to drink the best "lassi" of our lives!

29 october Ajmer (INDIA)

[Stefy]: Ajmer welcomes us with its bustle, its chaos, tuk tuks that run in every direction, merchants who recite their wares, strong odors.
We head straight to the  Dargati Mosque, it was the first time I saw a  so active mosque. Overflowing with the faithful at prayer.
Outside an impressive amount of cripples begging crawling along the road.

While I was wandering among the various courtyards of the mosque I thought how important  the faith may be.
That "quid"  that makes you give your food  or your savings to a statue even when you have nothing, that "quid"  that makes you adore a lot of rats, that makes you bath in the poisonous waters of a river, that makes you give all your dreams, hopes and desires in the hands of unlikely and colorful God, that "quid" that makes you  accept with calm resignation, the miserable life you have because the next will be better due to the current one, that "quid"  that makes you deprived of your life by killing others who doen't think like you to earn  a wonderful afterlife.

We return to Pushkar, a miniature Varanasi  with ghats  on the banks of a small lake.

03 november Udaipur (INDIA)

Udaipur: what a nice surprise!

 We would never  expected it so elegant, clean and quiet!

A jewel with its small lake at the center of which reigns the wonderful "White Palace" built by a maharaja in 1600 and that still charms all its visitors, maybe even more than the City Palace!
We spend a few days in this delightful town to recover a bit  since I was a little sick lately, nothing serious, only a slight flu.
We have to charge us for the second part of this trip to India.

Are you ready? Here we go to Bombay!

"No matter what you give
but how much love you put into giving ":

- Mother Teresa of Calcutta -

भारत द्वारा


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