07 december Kisoro (UGANDA)

Long day's journey to the borders of Rwanda and Congo. We cross very poor rural areas, small villages of thatched huts and mud with children with too big and worn tshirts playing in freedom; elderly rest sitting on the turf ... we meet a UN refugee camp, there were housed hundreds of Congolese, fled two weeks ago, because of internal unrest.

It's pouring and we don't want to set our tents, we opt for a small hotel.


08 december Kisoro (UGANDA)

It's 6.00 am. Pitch dark. On board two jeeps we climb to reach the Bwindi National Park and the "Impenetrable Forest". The road is in poor condition and the two-hour trip became quite tiring. Today is the big day dedicated to the discovery of these large mammals threatened with extinction.

Quick briefing with the rangers and we start with the trackers in this new adventure.

We follow paths carved into the dense thicket rainforest, the path is deep and wet; we walk for about an hour when the ranger receives a radio call from trackers ahead of us ...

[Stefy]: "In forty minutes we meet the family of silverback gorilla.
We climb through a small path made ​​just with machetes. We help clinging to vines or bushes until, suddenly, we hear noises coming from the top of a tree. We pause in silence, we look up and catch a glimpse of the little gorilla who tenderly makes its way from one branch to another. Amusingly, after eating some leaf falls from the tree!

The guttural verse of a large Silverback is getting closer. Here it is, an adult specimen of the silverback before our astonished eyes, just two meters away from us.
It sits down, eats a few sprigs and plunges into the unknown Impenetrable Forest ...
The rangers are watching us, they understand that we want to follow him ... the real adventure begins ...

They cut everything that is on the way in front of its path with strong machetes, we follow them as best we can, sinking without even see where we put our feet, down on his ass on the leaves, branches, trunks slimy, mud was everywhere and a some point, not to fall I cling to a branch ... too bad that it was full of black spines and very hard sticking deeply in my hand. I had never had an experience like that! "

09 december Kigali (RWANDA)

The Uganda-Rwanda border is immersed in the fog, there is only one bar showing the names of the two nations with a bored cop looking the few people passing ... we, with our big truck, awaken curiosity.

Customs formalities are quick and within minutes we leave Uganda through the small patch of anyone on foot. Welcome to Rwanda.

The landscape changes completely. Who expected Rwanda like this?
Well paved roads, green manicured lawns, concrete huts ..

We reach briefly the capital Kigali.
Lunch at "Economatt" with the baked potato and samosa before reaching the gate of the "Genocide Memorial".

I thought that after Auschwitz and Phnom Penh I had metabolized absurd situations to blame ... but it was not so .
The museum begins with a presentation of the historical and political Rwanda, the advent of the Belgians to the bloody genocide of Hutus and Tutsis, through an exhibition dedicated to children up to the massacres of the last century in the world.
The madness, stupidity of man has no rival.
I have read, watched movies and listened to gruesome testimonies, people killed, families exterminated by friends, neighbors, work colleagues or classmates just because of another ethnicity.
"How is it possible that the world was once again looking at?"
I was surprised thinking that the Cambodian massacre had happened in 1979 ... but here we are talking about 1990!
I am even more proud of my work if, through it, I could help combat situations like this.

We leave the museum just as the sky start to download all his anger with huge drops and in a few minutes it floods the whole Kigali, almost as if all the angelst had moved with us.

We move to Kibungo, we are still shocked and silent ... we are approaching Tanzania.


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