12 september Yazd (IRAN)

[Stefy]: "If you go out in the early afternoon in Yazd, you will not find anyone around, all the shops are closed... in the evening, instead, everything changes and you do not even have the space to move around!

Jameh Mosque dominates the old town, at night, it becomes enchanting. Its portal is all tiled and the blue turquoise colors, at sunset, are wonderful. Its minarets seem to be the guardians of this biscuit-colored city.

Amir Chakhmaq Complex. One of the most recognizable buildings in Iran, wide and deep niches all in a row that overlook a beautiful square, makes you dream and imagine how ancient Persia could be.

Just in front of it there is the gold bazaar. I am curiously approached by a group of little girls, they look at me smiling and make me understand they do not speak English... a merchant says that those women do not even talk farsi: they are Afghans!

We have lunch at Malek-o-Tojiar, a delightful restaurant within a beautiful traditional home.

It's hard to travel with such a small baby, we often wonder if we're doing well... I do not know... but having her so close to us is priceless, when she smiles us we light up and all the tiredness disappears!

From the top of the terrace of a hotel, in one of the countless alleys, we enjoy a fabulous sunset... the domes, the minarets, the bagdir, everything was in the right place under a warm, golden, perfect light! "

13 september Toudeshk (IRAN)

[Stefy]: "When an unexpected brings you to live an extraordinary experience. This morning we had to go by bus to Abarkooh, on the taxi ride from the hotel to the bus terminal, we find out  various difficulties to reach Isfahan from Abarkooh... in a few minutes: we change all our programs, we change bus ticket, book a new hotel, cancel the previous, learn that in Iran there is a village called Toudeshk and leave! "

After three hours of travel along a very arid desert landscape where, very seldom a small village appeared around a mosque... suddenly the bus stops... we look out the window... nothing... 35 degrees... all the passengers look at each other questioning what was happening... the driver approaches us screaming: Toudeshk!

We get down... the driver leave our backpacks on the dusty ground and, worried, looks at us with a very eloquent expression: "what about now?"

Pretending that we know what we are doing, we smile at him wishing him a safe trip! The bus departs... the scene is hilarious... even Nora looks at us perplexed!

We laugh and we go towards the only hut we see... there is a chubby man.. he looks at us and says: "Mohammad Jalali" (the owner’s name of the Guesthouse booked by the bus terminal)... as if it was a code word, I nod and two seconds later we find ourselves packed in a pick up with our backpacks and stroller in the back of concrete and lime!

Here we are at Tak Taku Guesthouse's door... an oasis in the desert... where peace and quietness reigns... at last Mohammad welcomes us.

He tells us his story: when he was a kid, he saw groups of European cyclists and motorcyclists who, walking the silk road, went to India or China... Many stopped at Toudeshk where there were no place to stay... without knowing English, he begins to "accommodate" these men coming from so far away... he helps them set their tents in the courtyard of his parents' old house, offers them hot water for the shower… in the course of the time he thought to build something... with huge sacrifices he has created his wonderful guesthouse.

[Stefy]: "We go for a stroll in the small muddy village... some women approach to greet us and welcome us... We go to the magnificent mosque where Mark ends playing tennis table with some locals while Nora runs and jokes with some little girls.

Nora, sweet love. I see her happy, I see her interact with children so far geographically and culturally from her and at the same time I see that, no matter the language, your roots: children are children, they play and have fun, they smile and caress themselves. I love the world and I love my daughter in the world; every day she gives us unique and unrepeatable moments.

In the evening we eat all together, we talk, laugh and admire this magical place that, at night, illuminated, it becomes even more enchanting."

14 september Isfahan (IRAN)

By taxi we easily get to Isfahan!

Isfahan is awesome. It is defined as the masterpiece of Iran, the jewel of ancient Persia, one of the most beautiful cities in the Islamic world. The refined mosaics of the blue tiles of the buildings, its vast bazaar and its romantic bridges will conquer you easily.

It is a city that can be visited by walking, lazing in its beautiful bazaar or in its stunning gardens sipping a tea and chatting with curious and sociable people.

Isfahan is above all the place to enjoy the sophistication of Persian culture, evident in Imam Square, Ali Qapu Palace, Imam Mosque and the surrounding areas.

The Khajoo Bridge illuminated at sunset, a plate of chicken or halil (soup of aubergines, cheese and turmeric) accompanied by a tasty humus, a walk along Khajoo Avenue while the frenetic city life passes our eyes are just some of the things we have so far.

We stay at Khajoo Hotel, a magnificent brand new hotel, inaugurated only a few months ago. Meysam warmly welcomes us! The hotel is very elegant, very well cured and run; rooms are the right place to rest after a whole day wandering around the city. You can’t ask for a better place to stay when you visit Isfahan!

15 september Isfahan (IRAN)

Jolfa. Armenian quarter of Isfahan. It dates back to the days of Shah Abbas I who massively transferred this great Christian colony of Jolfa, North Iran, to Isfahan.

Armenian Christians were famous for their bravery and for their art, just look at the inner walls of Vank's Cathedral to understand their ability.

 

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